In a sea of craziness perpetually pumping down the Berlin Fashion Week runway, Hien Le continues to stand out for his “less is more” penchant. The minimalist’s inspiration for his F/W 17 collection came from skateboarding history in the Forties and Fifties with an obvious side of Nineties punk. This translated to borderline baggy slacks, jean jackets with faux sheepskin collars, chalk-striped car coats and many a turtleneck, with all of the aforementioned paired with white sneakers and the occasional nerdy pair of glasses. In other words, this collection could and should have its own rack at Opening Ceremony and/or Assembly. A quick Sartorial slaying shout out to Le’s styling as well as the masterful art of layering on display.

Karaleev’s show was dominated by great womenswear numbers, but it was the handful of dudes storming down the runway that stole the show. Case in point: a below-the-knee navy vest boasting high fashion North Face vibes pulled off via Karaleev’s layering. The FW 17 collection reflected Karaleev’s affinity for the mixing of colors and fabrics, sculptural cuts and a soft vs. rough juxtaposition. On bold display were classic menswear staples reimagined: flared and flowy trousers, tweed jackets with a post-apocalyptic shredded look and also really good ‘90s middle hair parts.

Ivanman is not for the faint of the fearless fashion heart. The irreverent menswear brand has been spicing up the game since its launch in 2010, with a perpetual emphasis on unexpected colors and chaotic, sculptural cuts. According to Ivanman, lavender is the new black, with cream in second place. Proof: immaculately oversized lavender trenches, suits, cable knit sweaters, etc. Some looks were a bit Vetements-ish, like an all black ‘60s mod-meets-bodyguard look. Because anything can happen when you’re an Ivanman.

Someone get VFILES on the phone ASAP. Over the past seven years, SADAK has established itself as one of Berlin’s top forward-thinking, no-fucks-given menswear labels. Their fetish-tinged F/W 17 collection continued their tradition of provoking with their salacious subversiveness and gender-bending duds, including a kilt cameo x blazer sans undershirt x sneakers combo. There was lots of silk embroidery, sheer fabrics, cut-outs and patent leather happening, deconstructing and reinterpreting what some would believe everyday streetwear to be: a cherry red leather trench (bondage butcher?), for instance. At times a bit Matrix-y, it all makes sense that the designer, Sasa Kovacevic, has a background in stage and costume design. You might’ve even recognized some of SADAK’s looks in The Hunger Games: Mockingjay — Part 1.

Founded in Stockholm in 2006, the duo behind the unisex-heavy O D E U R Studios, Petter Hollstrom and Gorjan Lauseger, are all about clean cuts, both simple and unusual material-mixing and several splashes of opulence. This season, they did the damn dizzying thing again, with aesthetic highlights combining futuristic ghetto goth (see: that quilted patent leather bomber paired with quilted patent leather shorts), club-kids-gone-camo and, as we've been seeing a lot lately, bondage-heavy vibes (thank you, Helmut).