In 1972, Ralph Lauren introduced his take on the polo. Featuring an embroidered polo player on the chest, little did he know that the one garment would not only be his best selling item for decades—but would form the basis for an entire cross-section of his business.

More than the inspiration behind the diffusion line of the same name, the embroidered polo became emblematic of the American Dream. While the style and reference—as well as the sport itself—held upper class connotation, the price point was entirely approachable. The result was a garment both relatable and aspirational, symbolic of the sort of life Americans (particularly on the East Coast) fantasized. Though you might not be able to afford a summer house in the Hamptons, you can certainly afford a Ralph Lauren Polo.

Today, the garment itself is so loaded with meaning and historical context that it’s difficult to even evaluate. While available in an endless array of colors in numerous materials and featuring just as many styles of embroidery, for the most part, the fit is the same. No longer considered a sports shirt, the Ralph Lauren polo is simply a slice of Americana. As far as we’re concerned, that’s a good thing.

Though Ralph Lauren turned polos into a household name, it was famed French tennis player René Lacoste who transformed the garment from Argentine sports gear to the casual shirt we know today. It was Lacoste himself who introduced not just piqué cotton, but the cuffed sleeves and button-less spread collar that are now definitive traits.

In 1933, partnering with the largest knitwear producer in France, the French Grand Slam winner founded La Société Chemise Lacoste, which eventually became simply Lacoste. Featuring an embroidered crocodile—a reference to Lacoste’s nickname “Le Crocodile” due to his tenacity on the court—the Lacoste polo immediately invaded the tennis world, and was soon standard amongst players both on and off the court. Now, more than a century later, it is still the heart of the brand.

While Lacoste is still by all accounts a tennis sportswear brand, a number of creative directors—most notably Christophe Lemaire—have attempted to update the label over the years, which includes, of course, the polo. Though both the classic piqué cotton version and more technically driven poly blend versions are available, each season there are more daring options, including all-over prints and experimental fabrics such as rayon or silk. That said, the classic green gator on white piqué is hard to deny.

Another tennis great, former grand slam champion Fred Perry also wanted to try his hand at polo sports shirts. Inspired by his predecessor René Lacoste, Perry’s eponymous company already had a track record of success, introducing the first sweatband in the early-1940s. In 1952, Fred Perry debuted his take on the polo shirt at that year’s Wimbledon competition—which, prior to Andy Murray’s victory in 2013, he was the last Brit to win in 1936—and, naturally, it was an immediate success.

Similar to Lacoste, Perry began with white polos—however within a matter of years, introduced additional colors for table tennis (where white was illegal). As it turned out, one color in particular stood out: black. Co-opted by mod culture, the black Fred Perry polo featuring the laurel wreath embroidery—Perry’s answer to Lacoste’s crocodile—struck a chord with the modernists, one of the most stylistically influential sub-cultures in recent British history. Wearing Polos under tailor-made suits and vintage army jackets while riding their Vespas and hitting jazz clubs, the mods set the precedent for the rockers, teddy boys and punks that came after them.

While the garment has since lost its mod connotations and today the Fred Perry polo is a textbook example of British prep, thankfully, Raf Simons—himself a noted music connoisseur and sub-culture aficionado—is well aware of the garment's historical significance. In 2008, the two teamed up for a now 10-plus year-strong collaboration, celebrating both the Fred Perry legacy and the the sub-cultures that go along with it.

Naturally, Simons brought back the classic black-on-black three-button piqué polo, however rather than the classic wreath embroidery on the chest, a subtle sleeve embroidery and hidden charm on the back of the collar add a subdued elegance. For Raf Simons fans who can't seem to stomach his prices, the Fred Perry collaborations are a sort of well-kept secret.

Founded by Jack Carlson, Rowing Blazers is a pretty straightforward venture. Inspired by Carlson's own experience as an Olympic rower and the aesthetic of the clubhouses that come with it, the New York based label combines aspects of Ivy and classic British menswear (Carlson attended Oxford) in a modern way to create a new sort of prep aesthetic.

Though best known for its rugby shirts, the label produces everything from hoodies and snapbacks to madras blazers, a clever blend of modern streetwear and vintage prep that somehow feels wholly unique. Despite a higher than average price point and an oddly specific brand direction, Rowing Blazers has exploded over the past few years, a major player in the Ivy resurgence that brands like Noah and Beams Plus are leading.

Considering the differences between a rugby shirt and polo are, at this point, simply sleeves length and fabric weight, Rowing Blazers produced both. In its typical brash style, the embroidered logo is quirky, another meta commentary on the often ridiculous activities of the upper class. Rowing Blazers both embodies the upper crust—but is just as in on the joke as well.

Tyler, The Creator's personal style is unconventional, unexpected, and wildly imitated—with reason. The rapper's embrace of streetwear, high-fashion and what can only be described as "grandpa style" sparked a sea of thinkpieces, questioning his motives, choices, creativity—but all recognizing his genuinely novel approach to getting dressed.

When the rapper officially launched his clothing line, Golf Wang, fans were not sure to expect, particularly considering that, much like his music, his vibe changes at the drop of a hat. While the first couple seasons were glorified merch in the sort of bright colors one would expect, as of late, Golf Wang has grown increasingly impressive.

With a hard tilt towards prep albeit with much brighter tones and a wider set of references (Supreme, Noah, Louis Vuitton to name a few), Golf Wang embraces things like ugly floral tapestries and tweed to create collections that constantly surprise. Given that Tyler himself regularly wears polos, they made a logical segment within his clothing collections.

Our personal favorite is the Sunflower polo which, like the brand's ever-popular floral puffer features an all-over flower print. With a slightly wider fit and and a contrast black collar, this bumblebee colorway is guaranteed to make you the loudest dress person in the room—exactly the way Tyler likes it.

Alright, we'll say it: No one does cotton basics as well as Uniqlo. As opposed to other "fast fashion" competitors—a category that somehow feels beneath the Japanese behemoth—the quality to cost ratio is incomparable. Not only is Uniqlo well made, but the design team recognizes talent. Of course, hallmark seasonal collaborations with noted designers prove as such, but Uniqlo's ability to work with lesser known names—from Undercover to J.W. Anderson early on in his career—shows its commitment to the culture.

Take the recently launched Engineered Garments collaborations. While well-known both in New York and across Japan, outside those two markets, Daiki Suzuki's label is niche at best. Still, the variety of product and amount of faith the conglomerate put in such a cult figure is staggering.

Though recently the fleeces are all anyone can seem to talk about, the first drop from the on-going partnership was a limited set of polos that many fans missed out entirely. In a number of colorways and patterns, the reconstructed patchwork pieces are exactly the type of garment you would expect to see at a Nepenthes shop—and the last thing you would think would pop-up at a major mall brand. In a slightly oversized fit and featuring a shorter club collar, the patchwork polos are an affordable, versatile way to enter the Nepenthes universe.

Both Supreme and Nike regularly make polos—though for entirely different audiences. While Supreme constantly veers into "dad style" territory, Nike produces polos under various banners for the numerous sports it caters to—tennis and golf specifically. When the two teamed up for a puzzling iteration of the pair's ongoing collaboration in 2018 (apparel only, no footwear), the results were tepidly received. Yet, despite underperforming, in hindsight, the polo was a sleeper hit.

Part of the Fall/Winter 2018 collection, the Supreme x Nike capsule included a a work jacket, reversible fleece vest, gold swoosh earring and, of course, the jacquard polo. Knit with a two button placket, contrast rib and a small Supreme embroidery at the chest, the polo is the exact opposite of the piqué cotton classic you would expect. Given the partners, this is meant to be worn ragged and hard-wearing, and will look all the better for it. Buy it a size up and pair with a straight leg jean to really push the point home.

Thom Browne loves a dress code. His incredibly specific world view—grey, slim, cropped and snug—is unwavering. Of course, there are numerous exceptions to his rules as the wildly creative tailor seemingly can't stand tradition—at least when it comes to his signature shrunken silhouette.

Given that Thom Browne is primarily a suiting brand, the sportswear offering (apart from the smash success sweatsuits) consists of what you would expect: casual trousers, sweaters, oxford dress shirts and, what else, knit polos.

Though, given that this is Thom Browne, his polo fits drastically differently. Rather than a classic straight cut cotton piqué with a split hem, Browne instead opts for a heavily cropped knit merino that is nearly skin tight, halfway between muscle and dress shirt. With both a four button placket and Browne's signature 4-Bar motif on the right sleeve, even this simple polo—which, for the record is nearly $1,000 retail—is a fashion forward take on a tailoring staple. Though, that said, if you have the frame to pull this off, the look is killer.

More often than not, Missoni products are instantly recognizable—even without the benefit of a logo. That’s thanks to the Missoni family’s uniquely colorful zig-zags, stripes, waves and slub yarns, which were first developed in the 1960s but remain the linchpin of the brand’s aesthetic.

Missoni offers something decidedly different when it comes to polos: something playful and casual, with an undeniable retro vibe.

Missoni’s first menswear collection was only shown in 1979, at the end of the decade that Missoni is today synonymous with and more than two decades after Ottavio and Rosita Missoni launched their knitwear business. A number of older polos attributed to Missoni were actually produced under the Missoni Sport line, which was licensed out by the Milanese brand in the ’80s and ’90s, but discontinued in the 2000s.

That being said, Missoni’s contemporary knit polos are all produced in-house, to the brand’s exacting standards and using the brand’s signature look. While there are no authentic Missoni mens polos from the ’70s, a number of the more recent offerings have featured a cinched waist and construction reminiscent of the 1970s’ dominant style. Paired with Missoni’s colorful waves, zig-zags and slub yarns, the resulting polos are a little more casual and laid-back than most, with an irreverent edge—perfect for getting summer fits off.

A must-have Stone Island piece without the compass badge? Yes, they do exist.

Founded by Massimo Osti in 1982, Stone Island is best known for its cutting-edge outerwear, affiliation with European soccer’s casual culture and removable compass badge more than anything else. But the brand is bigger than gunmetal finishes, football stadiums and parkas.

Stone Island’s classic cotton piqué polo is a sterling example of the brand’s more—shall we say—understated options. Unlike Stone Island’s outerwear, the brand’s polos are sleek, simple and classic. The slim cut polo is available season after season in classic colors like black, white and navy, as well as in a veritable rainbow of season-specific colors. While the polo doesn’t have Stone Island’s tell-tale compass badge on the sleeve, it does have a small compass logo on the left chest, usually in slight contrast to the color of the body. Stone Island is famous for introducing slight variations on its pieces and that’s been no different with pocketed, striped, tipped and tech versions of the polo appearing throughout the years.

Casuals who embraced Stone Island’s polos have often worn them fully buttoned-up; it has arguably become the way to wear them—even Stone Island styles them that way!

Gucci has a made quite a few polos in its century of existence. For all the interlocking Gs and diamante patterns, one thing tends to stand out when it comes to Gucci polos: contrast collars. You’re as likely to find them on vintage Gucci polos as you are the latest Alessandro Michele-designed takes.

As with most things Gucci, the contrast collars have often come in one or both of the brand’s iconic colors: red and green. In recent years, Michele’s retro-inspired campish Gucci collections have featured more inventive takes on the contrast collar polo, with wider ribbing or bigger collars used. He’s also strayed away from the classic two-tone red and green contrast collars, often opting for only one Gucci’s signature colors and accenting them with seasonal graphic elements—snakes on the collar or the tracksuit-inspired branding introduced over the last few seasons.

Given the range that Gucci has covered over the years—from pure luxury under Tom Ford to fashionably kitschy under Alessandro Michele, not to mention everything that came before Ford—there’s likely a contrast collar Gucci polo for every taste: whether you opt for an all-over interlocking G print, a retro-inspired Michele polo or a sleek black version.

One thing that ought to be apparent is that fashion polos are overwhelmingly made from cotton—usually with a piqué knit—rather than polyester or other synthetic fabrics, which are usually reserved for golf and tennis polos.

One exception to that trend? Issey Miyake’s Homme Plissé pleated polos, which are made from polyester. Miyake debuted his now-famous pleats in 1988 and in the four decades since, they’ve become the defining characteristic of his work. The trousers are often held up as the quintessential Homme Plissé garment, but the polo is worthy of a shout, too.

As with everything that comes out of Homme Plissé, the polo has a roomier silhouette, which, when paired with the permanent pleats and weight of the fabric, give it a more casual look that borders on slouchy. That’s augmented by the fact that the polo doesn’t have any buttons on the placket. Those looking for a button-up version would need to opt for the pleated short-sleeved shirt.

It’s hard for a polo to be avant-garde, but if you’re looking for something truly arresting and different—not to mention something that can be worn hyper-casually or to make a fashion-forward statement—then the pleated polo is your safest bet.

Few brands excel at giving prep styles a streetwise edge. Noah is one of the exceptions. Brendon Babenzien’s New York imprint has been among the best at toeing the line between classic and disruptive, drawing on prepwear, streetwear, skate styles, cycling, beachcore and everything in between, with a healthy diet of throwback cultural references to boot.

It’s no surprise, then, that the brand has offered a steady stream of solid polos over the years. The polo is, after all, a kind of jack-of-all-trades garment—depending on how it’s worn. Noah polos have tended to incorporate stripes, both horizontal and vertical, giving their polos looks that range from nautical to collegiate, passing through sporting and ’90s streetwear.

It’s especially important with Noah to be conscious of the difference between rugbys and polos—the former is made from a heftier cotton twill, with a more robust and shorter collar, not to mention rubber buttons—as Babenzien’s brand is one of the few to offer both long and short sleeved versions of both rugbys and polos.

That’s not to say buyer beware, though—no matter what you get from Noah, you’re getting quality.