Founded in 2005—the same year NIGO opened the first NY Bape flagship store in SoHo—Billionaire Boys Club (often abbreviated to BBC), in large part, helped introduce the BAPE aesthetic stateside. The collaborative effort of NIGO and super-producer Pharrell, BBC offered a more affordable alternative to BAPE’s $600 hoodies and $300 tees.

Already a fan of BAPE, Pharrell was eager to work alongside NIGO and after a meeting courtesty of mutual friend Jacob the Jeweler, the two decided to launch a line together that celebrated their mutual love for both bourgeois cliches (BBC) and irreverent graphics in childlike colors (Ice Cream). More than a decade later (and with Supreme alum and Noah bossman Brendon Babenzien now at the helm of Bee Line) BBC and Ice Cream continues to present collections centered around bold graphics and the dichotomy between high brow prep and skater fantasy.

With a focus on obscure futuristic graphics, archivial computing and gaming references, Cav Empt presents the next generation of BAPE ideology. Founded by Toby Feltwell and Shinichiro Nakamura (aka Sk8thing) both designers played fundamental roles in BAPE and BBCs history.

While Sk8thing helped NIGO launch BAPE in '93, Feltwell began his career in the UK as an A&R at Mo’Wax records in the UK—the same label where NIGO released his first album. Eventually moving to Japan to work at BAPE, Feltwell become one of NIGOs primary liaisons abroad. While at BAPE, Feltwell and Sk8thing became close friends working on everything from the BBC logo (designed by Sk8thing) to various album artwork and jewelry.

After the sale of BAPE in 2011, the duo left the brand before launching their own label Cav Empt (eventually shortened to C.E.) in 2012. A progression on years of graphics and streetwear staples, C.E. offers a more dystopian take on streetwear, equal parts 1984 and retro-futurism. Although recent seasons have skewed more technical, the original graphic sweaters and tees are still a core part of any Cav Empt collection.

In the latter half of 2010, NIGO began to lessen his involvement with BAPE as he focused on a new endeavor, HUMAN MADE. A notorious vintage clothing collector, NIGO teamed up with famed Osaka 5 denim brand Warehouse to produce a collection that features everything he loves about vintage.

While technically NIGO’s take on 1950s Americana, considering his history in streetwear it's no surprise he enlisted Sk8thing to produce graphics reminiscent of the original Velva-Sheen logos. With products ranging from modern interpretations of sukajan jackets to Curry Up merchandise (NIGO's chain of curry-focused restaurants)—HUMAN MADE is simultaneously vintage reproduction and modern streetwear.

One of BAPEs earliest and frequent collaborators, Mastermind Japan may be one of the most divisive labels in streetwear. Founded by Masaaki Homma in 1997, Mastermind Japan began as seasonal ready-to-wear label presenting collections first in Tokyo then as part of Paris Fashion Week. With the goal of proliferating luxury Japanese streetwear across the globe, Homma aggressively marketed his signature skull & crossbones motifs, eventually landing his first US stockist, Maxfield’s in Los Angeles.

While the $1000 hoodies and $12000 Swarovski studded leather jackets are not for everyone, Homma found his niche audience, and the label was a hit. The bold skull graphic quickly became as recognizable as any logo in streetwear, its rarity and price point eliciting awe for any in the know. Abandoning seasonal collections in 2012, Homma now presents irregular drops throughout the year and various capsule collections with names like adidas, Vans and of course BAPE.

Few artists are as closely affiliated with the streetwear—and arguably modern fashion—world as KAWS. Born Brian Donnelly, the artist has worked with everyone spanning from Supreme to Nike and Comme des Garçons to Dior Homme. While most famous for his gargantuan “Companion” sculptures featured in galleries and museums across the globe, KAWS—like NIGO—is a toy fanatic and has designed figures for some of the most notable brands in Japanese streetwear including Bounty Hunter and, naturally, BAPE.

In 2006, KAWS partnered with MediCom Toy to launch OriginalFake, a toy and merch line with a flagship store in Aoyama. While predominantly focused on figurines, given KAWS' work and adjacency to streetwear, it was only time before his T-shirts and hoodies—usually featuring the companion—became coveted in and of themselves. Building on his trademark style of reinterpreting famous cartoons in precarious situations, the tongue-in-cheek designs were easily the most affordable way to own an original KAWS. At first available exclusively in Japan, stockists soon followed and for seven years OriginalFake was a staple in the industry. Unfortunately in 2013 both the store shuttered and the label disbanded, however recently there have been murmurings of a return. Currently KAWS' OriginalFake aesthetic lives on in the artist's ongoing collaborations for Uniqlo.