Few releases better embody the essence of Vault by Vans than. this collaboration with Mexico’s Huichol tribe. Released in 2014 to commemorate a people who survived colonialism and religious missions with their culture relatively unscathed, the drop featured two footwear silhouettes, as well as artwork. On the sneaker side, the Slip-On LX and Sk8-Hi LX featured traditional Huichol weaving and beading, respectively. The Slip-On played on Vans’ iconic checkerboard, using the Huichol’s dyed yarn weaving to create a multicoloured pattern, while the Sk8-Hi, featured hand-beaded ankle pendants and side stripes.

Each pair took a whopping ten months to complete. The result maintained Vans DNA—the checkerboard and side stripe—but presented it in a unique way that only Vault could craft. When the dust settled, only 360 pairs were available for sale, distributed through select Vault accounts. Accompanying the footwear were insanely limited runs of skateboards and skulls that also featured the Huichol tribe’s distinct art.

Another 2014 release, the RFC Prison Issue LX was a perfect storm of sorts. Not only was it one of the first reissues of the cultish Prison Issue (now known as the Style 23 LX), but featured a pristine white leather upper and subtle detailing—all an ode to European football’s terrace culture. While the Prison Issue did coincide with velcro straps making a comeback in late 2014 and early 2015, they were undoubtedly ahead of their time given soccer’s sudden resurgence in fashion.

The shoe was the product of a collaboration between the Ringleaders Football Club, a collective of creatives that share a passion for soccer, and Vault by Vans. With around 100 pairs produced, most of the pairs were reserved for Club members, while the remaining pairs were sold through Off The Hook, home to one of the first Vans partnership stores in the world. With the Prison Issue’s cult status, the premium materials and the extremely limited quantity produced, it’s hard to leave the RFC Prison Issue LX off the list.

Launched June 2015, at Paris Fashion Week, Vault’s collaboration with revered Japanese artist Takashi Murakami cemented the sub-label as a cultural force to be reckoned with. The collection was relatively simple, and consisted of six Slip-On LXs, some apparel, and skateboards. Perhaps most importantly, the collaboration didn’t feel forced. At the time, both Vans and Murakami were experiencing immense success and given that Murakami was an avid Slip-On fanatic, the silhouette was a perfect canvas for his effervescent superflat style.

In celebration of the release, the duo set up a pop-up shop in Paris that featured the unique collaborative prints emblazoned on surfboards and across canvases. The launch was one of the hottest events that season and was the talk of Paris Fashion Week. Following the limited drop, the collection was later released through select Vault accounts in the United States and Europe. While the Slip-Ons were certainly popular—they currently resell for around $200— the decks were extremely hard to come by, and the complete triptych will set you back a couple grand today.

For years the Half Cab was a relic of a bygone era, one in which skate shoes were absurdly chunky and pants excessively baggy. In 2017 though, Steve Caballero’s namesake silhouette turned 25, and suddenly the shoes were given new life. To celebrate the occasion, Vault rolled out a series of Cabs and of particular note were a trio of hairy suede offerings in collaboration with Swedish menswear label Our Legacy. The burnt orange rendition was the most tantalizing, a somewhat unseemly color with strange details—features emblematic of the original Half Cab.

What made the shoe particularly appealing was that the Half Cab—which even amongst the skate world is not considered a good looking sneaker—is a performance skate shoe, rarely crossing over into Vans’ lifestyle realm. Working with a Scandinavian contemporary menswear label to totally reimagine a skate shoe was both unexpected and utterly prescient, considering the ugly-dad sneaker trend was right around the corner. Coupled with the outstanding quality and unique colourway, the sneaker was one of the most talked-about Vault collaborations of 2017.

Like any industry juggernaut, Vans is extremely protective of its beloved side stripe. That’s why the 2013 collaboration between Vault by Vans and Southern California-based BLENDS was such a pivotal moment on the Vault timeline. Not only did the collaboration celebrate BLENDS’—a crucial Vault partner since nearly the beginning—tenth anniversary, it also represented a rare instance where a powerhouse brand allowed a partner to tamper with their trademark logo.

With a run of only 100 pairs of the original black leather “Bones” Sk8-Hi LXs, a veritable craze ensued, and the crazed hype helped put the small SoCal skate shop on the radar of sneakerheads everywhere. Since the original 2013 release, Vault and BLENDS have come back together a number of times, with the “Bones” Jazz Stripe making appearances on a range of silhouettes, from the Old Skool Zip to the Sk8-Hi Decon.

This Vault release is worthy of a spot simply because it is a case study in how Vault product can differ dramatically from traditional Vans silhouettes. The Engineer Boot LX first appeared in lead Vault designer Taka Hayashi’s Spring 2012 collection and is representative of an era where Vault was pushing Vans in a new, sometimes uncomfortable direction.

The two models, in brown and black leather, boasted a crepe sole and two d-ring pull-straps—all features clearly not suited for skating. Reminiscent of a Clark’s Wallabee, the shoe drew inspiration from Native American design—a recurring theme for Hayashi—with a distinct moccasin-like stitch around the toe box. A far cry from Vans’ vulcanized rubber and canvas the shoe more closely resembled a Visvim sneaker, in terms of both construction and material. The model—far outside the wheelhouse of most Vault stockists—did not sell particularly well. Only stocked in limited quantities at a handful Vault retailers, the shoe is as rare as it is unknown, making it one of Vault’s forgotten gems.

Japanese military-inspired brand WTAPS has become a frequent collaborator with Vault by Vans, often releasing extensive collaborations that play on traditional Americana and Vans’ extensive archive. The Fall 2013 capsule, though, stands head and shoulders above their other releases.

Made entirely in the USA, the ’13 release struck a perfect balance between WTAPS military aesthetic and Vans’ rich history steeped in Americana. The olive and navy Sk8-Hi LXs played up the vintage military style, while the two-tone Slip-On LXs were distinctly American, with the beige and black Chukka LXs adding balance to the collection. Surprisingly, the collection sat on the shelves for a few weeks until Kanye West stepped out sporting a pair of Sk8-His—after that the Slip-Ons and Sk8-His evaporated overnight.

The 2013 collaboration became a sort of Gold Standard for larger Vault releases: the product was superbly crafted, the design was simple yet eye-catching, and the product eventually sold out.

The February 2017 collaboration from Undercover and Vault by Vans was confined to the realm of streetwear rumours and forum fodder until aproximately 100 hours before the release, when Vans announced the five silhouette collection. While the Era LXs, emblazoned with lyrics from English rock band Temple, were certainly popular, the grey Old Skool LX became the standout model, thanks in large part to the micro floral print on the upper, a common thread in all of Jun Takahashi’s work over the years.

While the collection was highly-anticipated, the short lead-time between confirmation and release led to some confusion between retailers and consumers. Ultimately, the aforementioned Old Skool LX was the hardest to come by, though the trio of Era LXs became increasingly popular in the months that followed due to their understated look.

American designer Marc Jacobs was one of Vault’s earliest collaborators, and continues to be a valuable partner to this day. Reputation aside, you would be hard-pressed to top his trompe l’oeil Slip-On LXs released during Spring-Summer 2007 season. Featuring a sketch of and Old Skool and Authentic patterns quite literally printed onto white Slip-Ons, the sneaker is a nod to two of Vans’ most recognizable silhouettes, executed by one of American fashions biggest stars at the heigh of his fame. Plus, the fact that the boxes featured a Marc Jacobs-infused Vans’ logo makes them all the more special.

No Vault list would be complete without including the 2007 collaboration with The Simpsons. Celebrating the release of the first feature length Simpsons movie, the release set the precedent for all notable projects moving forward. While Vault is today accustomed to working with industry heavy-hitters, tapping KAWS, Futura, Neckface, Tony Munoz, Geoff McFetridge, Taka Hayashi, Gary Panter, David Flores, Todd James, Sam Messer and Mr Cartoon to re-imagine Simpson’s characters —with the blessing of Matt Groening no less—was a massive statement in 2007.

Each model was limited to 100 pairs and distributed among 10 premium Vault accounts, with special boxes featuring caricatures by Matt Groening of the various artists who worked on the project. The collection sold out in 90 minutes and became one of the most limited and highly-sought after Vans releases of all time, with pairs selling on the secondary market for upwards of $500.