The success of this collection is less about a singular item and more about a wider aesthetic; if climbing gear takes a place as a styling touchpoint in the next few months, Cottweilier’s latest collection will be right at the core. At a time where belts (shout out to things like Alyx’s Rollercoaster Belt) are as much a statement piece as anything else, the carabiner clipped harness adds yet another item to the expanding waistline accessory category.

The most arresting aspects were easily those items dipped in wax; a move right in line with the caving theme, bags, flashlights and other bits and bobs looked as though they were fossilized or reimagined as makeshift stalactites and stalagmites. When placed alongside garments in a luminescent blue, it completes the collection’s climbing-centric thesis. It's hard to isolate singular items (the brand's signature tracksuits are an easy place to start, but hardly the only items worth a second look) that really dominate over any of the others; as a whole, it's a collection that show's Cottweiler's clear attempts to both broaden its horizons while staying true to its original spirit. If you were worried that Cottweiler was only about trackpants and athleisure, this offering shows how conceptual the brand can be.

For a collection featuring plenty of new things for his brand—Kiko Kostadinov unveiled both his first womenswear items along with a new knit pouch (his first “handbag”)—the one thing that managed to grab our attention was the latest iteration on Kostadinov’s partnership with Asics and his boots with Camper.

Considering that the Gel-Burz 1 collaboration sneaker (itself a mashup of the Asics Gel-Nimbus 20 and Gel-Venture 6) recently hit store shelves, there’s already plenty of momentum behind this partnership (which, for the record, also includes apparel as well). If the sneakers aren’t your thing, then Kostadinov’s take on Camper’s Teix boot was also worth a second look. Those looking for Kostadinov’s cut-up style as showcased in earlier collections and collaborations may not find it so readily here; aesthetically, the collection as a whole seems to fit somewhere in the middle between Cottweiler and Craig Green.

When it comes to Craig Green runway shows, the man is nothing if not conceptual. Consistently tackling the space of “workwear” with an eye on the balance between practicality and abstraction, Green’s juxtaposed work jackets (and their many iterations) have become something of a signature for the relatively young—yet highly awarded—brand. While fans of his earlier collections are sure to be satisfied with what Green sent out for Fall/Winter 2018, the showstopper of the season had to be the colorful parkas that helped close out the show.

“Human tents” was the description given to Vogue’s Sarah Mower—a piece caught between the realms of childhood imagination and the Earthy pageantry of Celtic flags. Mower uncovered Green’s particular fascination with “gig lines”—the way pieces of clothing are precisely arranged when wearing a military uniform. Considering the usual wearable art pieces that also accompany the garments themselves on the runway, it seemed Green was attempting to walk the line between rigid and flowy this season. In the context of the parkas, the angular lines of colorblocking and crinkle-ready, tubular fabric give the garments that rigidity; the playful color choices and flowing cord tassels give the parka’s some flow. The ability to maintain that balance is what makes Green worth watching season, after season.

More than just recycle-friendly phrases plastered across several garments, the charm of Christopher Raeburn is his penchant for rebuilding and recreating garments out of others (especially when it comes to military-inspired pieces). Fashioning everything from a topcoat to a roomy pullover anorak out of a repurposed checkered Russian Navy blanket, Raeburn reincarnated military-grade pieces into something that pays homage to its provenance while feeling completely modern and sidewalk-ready; that’s always been the magic of his work.

While we’d love to identify a single piece that is primed for grail-status, it’s hard to find a singular piece that deserves recognition above the others. The multiple outerwear iterations born from the remains of a orange neoprene divesuit deliver a clear example of what makes Raeburn’s so unique (showing relics of what the garment was in the garment that it has become), but it’s hard not to love the blue-striped, robe-like coats fashioned from blankets belonging to the Danish Navy.

At a time when the graphic nature of Virgil Abloh’s Off-White is as popular as the technically minded designs coming out under Acronym and Stone Island, Raeburn once again produces a collection that seems to hit all those marks at once, all while managing to slide in just under the radar when compared to his more commonly-cited contemporaries.

It’s easy to see those that have come before Samuel Ross—the Virgils and the Kanyes that inflect and clearly influence the designer (and by extension, the audience viewing the garments). Sans-serif typeface branding and street-ready silhouettes reworked in shiny, luxe (or even transparent) fabrics recall the work of Off-White. A hole-filled sweater recalls Yeezy Fall/Winter 2016 (perhaps better known as Season 3). But even when you can spot his contemporaries, there’s no denying that for Fall/Winter 2018, Ross clearly pushed his enigmatic label forward, focusing on working class architecture and elevating its raw regularity into something more conceptual.

As noted in WWD, the collection itself was inspired directly by British council estates, taking inspiration from not just the people who live on the estate, but those who work among the stoic public housing complexes. As such, the clothing (not to mention the show set) was given a utilitarian edge, placing oversized cargo pockets on the front of a lilac zip anorak, or injected into a look by way of various vests and harnesses. Bottoms blended in ideas from trackpants, with tearaway trousers sharing the stage with bottoms that looked ready to hit the construction site. Considering that both trackpants and work trousers are generally created out of materials known for windblocking or waterproof qualities, they’re united by more than just being tucked into a pair of stark, splattered, white or gray rubber rain boots (which, for what it's worth, may be heading into "trending" territory).