Goro Takahashi

To really understand Goro’s the brand, you have to understand Goro the man. Born in Tokyo in 1939, Takahashi was the youngest of six brothers. He began his career early, learning how to carve leather in high school. At a summer camp, Takahashi met an American soldier stationed in Japan, who taught Takahashi leather crafting techniques over the course of the summer. When the soldier’s tour ended, he gifted the 16-year-old Takahashi a set of leather-carving tools, enabling Takashi to further refine his leatherwork.

Clearly, the American made an impression on the young Takahashi, who eventually traveled to the United States to further refine his leatherworking skills. Mr.Takahashi set out to learn the craft for himself from various Native American communities across the country but began to explore silver engraving along the way. He became enamored by indigenous culture and lifestyle through his travels. Takahashi became particularly close to the Lakota tribe and was the first non-Lakota individual to take part in the “Sun Dance” ritual. Takahashi was eventually granted the title “Yellow Eagle”—the eagle being the bird of the east, and yellow the color of the east on the medicine wheel. His relationship with the Lakota was a formative experience that laid the groundwork for what would later become Goro’s.

After returning to Japan, Takahashi became the first officially sanctioned Native American-style silversmith on Japanese soil. He discovered the growing demand for imported American silver jewelry in his home country and it wasn’t long before he was selling his own creations. In 1972, he moved his shop in Tokyo to Omotesando-dori, where it still stands to this day. Initially, the brand spread through word of mouth. Goro’s focused on personal attention and would only sell pieces to customers that the staff felt matched a potential client’s style and temperament. The designs became popular with some Japanese celebrities, most notably Takuya Kimura from the pop group SMAP. Kimura holds Goro’s jewelry in high regard, particularly his eagle pendant, once stating “I have more confidence and courage after wearing the eagle...It is a bit like an amulet.”

Takahashi was a relentless perfectionist who was constantly trying to upgrade his skill set. On a never-ending quest to one-up himself, Takahashi once stated: “I’ll never be satisfied with my works, which push me to make the next one better, someday I found some work which I am satisfied, it’s the end of Goro’s.”

On November 25, 2013, Goro Takahashi’s unfortunately passed away. Survived by his two children, Goro’s continues as a family-run business in Takahashi’s absence. Although he is no longer with us, Takahashi’s legacy is still very much intact and remains at the heart of the Goro’s business, which despite his death is very much the same.

The Product

Predominantly an accessories brand, Goro’s is best known for belts, necklaces, bracelets, bags, and medallions. While materials utilized in production include gold, turquoise, leather, and beads, the brand is best known for their work with silver. Goro Takahashi explained his attraction to silver stating “a silver work could last and exist over thousands of years, I am very proud to have my work stay in the world even if I have passed away.”

As for the symbolism in the jewelry itself, the iconic eagle and feather designs were derived from Takahashi’s personal experiences living with the Lakota. The eagle, for example, is a lofty symbol whose feathers represent dignity and glory. Its feathers are sacred, brave, fearless, and noble. Traditionally feathers have been given out like blessings. The Medicine Wheel is also a sacred symbol representing the knowledge of everything in the universe. Its structure consists of circles and crosses. with the circles representing the cycle of life and death and crosses representing the intersection of humans and the sun.

While information on both its product and process is relatively scarce, a series of books that delve into Goro Takashi’s life and work is essential for any true fan. Released in 2013 by World Photo Press, The Legend Of Harajuku Goro's Vol.1 is a beautifully photographed 144-page book that tells the story of Goro’s through select images and archival product photos. The book showcases Goro Takahashi’s fascination with Native American lore and includes select anecdotes and biographical texts. Two follow-ups to the book were later published, Legend Of Harajuku Goro's Vol.2 in 2015 and Legend of Harajuku Goro’s Vol.3 in 2017.

Shopping at Goro’s

Since Takahashi moved his shop in Tokyo to Omotesando-dori in 1972, the Goro’s store has stood in the same location, where it still stands to this day. The shop sits on the second floor of a nondescript orange building located at 4 Chome-29-4 Jingumae in Harajuku, consistently drawing lines for years. To deal with the overwhelming demand—and deter resellers—Goro’s has implemented a lottery system in recent years, in order to provide each customer a fair shot at purchasing some items. Even with the lottery, this process often proves troubling, spawning numerous accounts, Reddit threads, and how-to guides.

Goro’s is open every day of the week (except Wednesday) and runs a raffle to draw numbers daily at 11 AM. A lineup will usually form a few hours before open and all customers must arrive by then in order to enter the raffle. Each person in line must provide identification (passport or driver’s license) to hold their position. When you reach the front of the store, an iPad is used to draw a number which determines the order of entry. If you draw a low enough number, you’ll receive a wristband which grants entry into the store. The doors to the actual shop open at 1 PM daily, when the first five customers will be able to enter. Goro’s staff can refuse to sell products to customers that they feel are not suitable for them. Additionally, some of the rarer pieces may not be available to all customers. It’s also important to know that the business is strictly cash only.

For those who don’t want to journey to the shop itself, there are other options to purchase items through third-party sellers. Various resell and second-hand shops in Tokyo will carry Goro’s including popular outlets like Rinkan. Despite the strict set of rules, the feeling of shopping in the store can’t be replicated elsewhere and is requisite for the complete Goro’s experience.

The Legacy

After more than 40 years in Harajuku, the Goro’s brand continues to inspire long queues and a devoted fanbase. Even as the neighborhood has changed and countless trends have come and gone, Goro’s has remained remarkably consistent. Goro Takahashi understood it was the handmade products, not any extraneous element, that kept customers coming back. He once simply summed up the appeal of the Goro’s as “no advertising, merely a small amount of handiwork.” In the years since his passing, Takahashi’s legacy lives on through the store he founded, and the products it sells.