Year: 1998

In honor of Supreme's 1998 Daikanyama store opening in Japan, the streetwear brand known for its myriad of logo flips released a line of apparel turning Patagonia's iconic Monte Fitz Roy ridge line logo into the New York City skyline. Though often miscited as an official collaboration, it should come as no surprise that Supreme founder James Jebbia has credited Patagonia as one of his favorite brands.

Year: Fall/Winter 2003

While Raf Simons has no shortage of groundbreaking collections. One of the most well-known for casual fans and archivists alike is Simons Fall/Winter 2003 “Closer” collection. While the offering consisted of several different pieces, the signature items (as seen in a now famous group runway photo) were the fishtail parkas. Utilizing Peter Saville’s album artworks for New Order, the parkas have become grails for many collectors regardless of their affinity for Simons work, and stand apart as one of the designer’s most pivotal pieces.

Year: Fall/Winter 2002

Austrian-born Helmut Lang carries a legacy that would go influence a multitude of designers, including the now-oft-referenced Raf Simons. While Lang would cement his legacy as a stalwart of the New York Fashion Week circuit—embodying the city’s blend of grunge and modern minimalism throughout the 1990s and early-2000s—he originally began his career in Paris. He would move to New York City in 1997. Paying homage to his roots in the City of Light, this longsleeve features the words “Paris” written in metallic silver text, with his brand logo, the collection, and the year the brand was established (1986) on the back. Fittingly, the Paris-based Helmut Lang flagship was the final shop to shut its doors before Helmut Lang was sold to its current owner, Link Theory Holdings, in 2006.

Year: 2001-2002

In the 1970s, the German army commissioned brothers Adi and Rudolf Dassler to create a trainer for the military—the pair best known for their respective sportswear companies, adidas and Puma. Like other military garments, the sneaker landed in the hands of many, inspiring several casual sport shoes like the adidas Samba. Then came Martin Margiela. Margiela’s atelier bought up vintage pairs of GATs, embossed the tongue with Margiela’s numeric branding, hand-painted the midsoles, then passed them around the design studio for the staff to doodle on. They even came with an info card that read, “Feel free to add your own graffiti.” Being the epitome of Margiela’s artisanal craftsmanship, The original crop of hand-drawn GATs have become one of Margiela’s most sought-after grails, especially after a re-released edition landed in 2013.