Kiko Kostadinov first made a name for himself two years ago by collaborating with Stüssy for their 35th anniversary. The Bulgarian-born designer produced a series of stitched together tees and hoodies for the streetwear stalwart that flew off shop shelves. Following his work with Stüssy, Kostadinov studied for an MA in fashion design at Central Saint Martins and was a recipient of the NEWGEN Men Award from the British Fashion Council.

In June 2016, Kostadinov presented his debut collection, an exploration of industrial uniforms and workwear. He even went as far as to re-create a chemical worker’s suit through his own minimalist approach. Receiving near-immediate critical and commercial success, he inevitably ended up serving double duty when after only a single season landed a position with Scottish heritage brand Mackintosh. Known for their raincoats, Mackintosh hired the designer to oversee an experimental new line Mackintosh 0001—similar to Aitor Throup’s role at G-Star. The line consists of ten striking uni-sex looks that will launch this fall.

At just 25 years old Grace Wales Bonner has already established herself as one of the most exciting designers in Europe. The winner of the 2016 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, her talent was recognized by a veritable who’s who of fashion heavyweights including Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs, Phoebe Philo and Riccardo Tisci. Bonner, who graduated with a BA in design and marketing from Central Saint Martins in 2014, has quickly become the face of a new wave of English fashion designers.

For Bonner, fashion is a vehicle to understand her own mixed heritage. Born in South-East London to an English mother and Jamaican father, her designs pull from both sides of her identity. Asked to present her AW15 collection ‘Ebonics’ at the V&A's as part of the prestigious Fashion in Motion program, her first collection served up flamboyant looks that featured intricate beading and embellishments. The presentation showcased Bonner’s ability to subvert both traditional black male identity and euro-centric luxury.

Describing her debut, she said “it was about exploring the space between European ideals of opulence, elegance, and then something very real, very directly African.” This quote highlights Bonner’s unique cultural literacy and thoughtful approach to design that has made her one of the most buzzed about young designers in the industry.

As a teenager, designer Samuel Ross used to bootleg Nike and Adidas for himself and his friends. In an ironic twist of fate he continues to produce clothes that emulate that subversive mindset. After graduating from De Montford University in Leicester with a degree in Graphic Design and Illustration, Ross cut his teeth as a creative assistant for Virgil Abloh at OFF-WHITE. His experience with OFF-WHITE helped him learn the intricacies of the clothing business before venturing out on his own.

Contradiction lies at the heart of his fledgling label A-COLD-WALL*. The brand, equal parts streetwear and directional fashion, is informed by Ross’ studies in graphic design, contemporary illustration and product design. Essentially, A-COLD-WALL* is an attempt to pair the resilience of the British underclass with the refinement of the upper echelons of society. For such a young brand, A-COLD-WALL* has already established some trademark design flourishes: uneven garment dying, visible stitching and bold typographic prints.

The Fall/Winter 2017 A-COLD-WALL* runway show also introduced a bespoke NikeLab Air Force 1. Ostensibly in simple white and grey suede, Ross deconstructed the AF1, reducing the number of eyelets, and wrapping the swoosh in camouflage with contrast stitching. While the shoe has yet to see a wider release yet, it’s indicative of the creative problem solving that Ross brings to the table.

Originally from Kent, Liam Hodges first launched his namesake label in 2014. The line quickly became a favorite among the celebrity set including Drake, FKA Twigs and Danny Brown. The key to his success is an accessible approach to design that uses strong graphic language and oversized silhouettes. Hodges places an emphasis on wearability, stating that ultimately he’s taking something quite normal and making it beautiful.

Hodges certainly knows how to make an impression with his collections, with often bizarre or unexpected concepts and reference points. His Fall/Winter 2017 collection, quite literally an end of the world party, was inspired by a quote from performance poet Hector Aponysus: “Looking for a vocation in the decline of civilization.”

For his Spring/Summer 2018 collection, Hodges was heavily influenced by UK grime and pirate radio. He also presented a brand new FILA collaboration as part of the proceedings, which will surely grant his label some further recognition.

For the past few seasons, Martine Rose has played a critical role in defining underground men’s fashion in London. While one of the hardest things for a young designer to accomplish is establish a definitive aesthetic, Rose has been successful at just that. Her trademark look—shrunken shortened tops and outerwear mixed with super wide flared pants—not to mention her oddly-proportioned broad shoulder suiting, has earned her critical praise and a cult following.

When describing her style, Rose says, "I’m often quoted as saying it’s really ’90s—but that’s too simplistic. It reflects a time of growing up. What I remember, and what feels new.” While independent designers don’t always get their due, it’s clear that Rose’s vision of menswear is as timely as it is influential. Rose has a knack for knowing what’s missing in menswear at any given moment and delivering just that.

Martine Rose continues to challenge convention in how she presents her collections. For Spring 2015, Rose decided to show just a single look, summarizing her ideas for the season in one outfit. For Spring 2017, she organized her collection around the idea that “old clothes command new owners.” For her latest collection, Spring/Summer 2018, she found unlikely inspiration from the underground electro scene in 1980’s and 90’s Toronto. Outside of her namesake label Rose also moonlights as a consultant for designer Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga, where her signature suiting has made a dramatic impact.

Perhaps the most prolific name on this list, London native Craig Green put himself at the forefront of a new wave of British menswear when he launched his namesake label in 2012. A masters graduate of Central Saint Martins, Green studied under the tutelage of beloved professor Louise Wilson, who trained some of the most successful designers in fashion, most notably Alexander McQueen, before her untimely passing in 2014.

Green became known for using reinterpreations workwear and uniforms to communicate his design philosophy. Throughout his collections, his take on the Work jacket has shown up consistently, a signature piece of sorts. While his shows have drawn much deserved attention and critical acclaim, the designer really came into his own with a memorable Spring/Summer 2015 showing. The collection drew a visceral reaction from front row audience members, with some even beginning to cry at how poetic and unexpectedly emotional the presentation was.

Craig Green has racked up tons of accolades from the fashion establishment, including Emerging Menswear Designer at The British Fashion Awards 2014, and British Menswear Designer at The Fashion Awards 2016. For Green, the critical acclaim came along with commercial success. The label now boasts a stock list that includes Dover Street Market, 10 Corso Como, Selfridges, Barneys, Joyce, Bergdorf Goodman and Galeries Lafayette.

This year, Craig Green’s designs hit the big screen as he was hired to design pieces for the Ridley Scott epic Alien: Covenant. When Costume designer Janty Yates saw Green’s Fall 2015 collection in a store, she thought his aesthetic perfectly aligned with her vision for the film. The final result was Green producing dozens of hand-sewed pieces, emulating a sort of retro-futurism pervasive in Ridley Scott films.

Not one to avoid grand themes, Matthew Miller has referenced war, decay and deconstruction in his collections. He launched his eponymous label in 2010, after receiving his MA in Menswear Design from the Royal College of Art.

Miller's design philosophy positions fashion as a product, just like ceramics or furniture, and his signature aesthetic mixes tailoring and sportswear with textile experimentation. Each season, Miller begins his design process with words and a written manifesto often leading to collections that are overtly political in nature.

In the past Miller has not been shy about putting his worldview on display. His Fall/Winter 2015 collection, “Introversion" was a response to the hopelessness of war. Models on the runway literally wore Velcro patch slogans that spelled out his message of peace: “War is anti-you and anti-society.”

Cottweiler’s roots date back over a decade, to when designers Matthew Dainty and Ben Cottrell first met while studying fashion at the University of West England. The two formed a friendship on a class trip to Paris, spending nights out together at techno clubs there. Cutting their teeth working for other labels, Dainty at Kim Jones for Umbro and Cottrell on Savile Row, the two founded Cottweiler in 2010 but deliberately kept the label under the radar for several years.

Before they had even stockists, Dainty and Cottrell designed several small collections and established an internet presence for the brand via Tumblr. Pre-dating instagram brands with shopify accounts, Cottweiler produced pieces in small quantities and sold them through word of mouth. Their big breakthrough came in 2012 when UK retailer Primitive London and Japanese streetwear boutique GR8 picked up the label. The newfound exposure helped push the label to the next level.

Cottweiler is known first and foremost for their elevated take on sportswear. If there’s one piece that defines the brand it is their luxe tracksuit. Both designers self proclaimed "fabric geeks," and for Fall/Winter 2015 they released a black tracksuit made from a combination of silk and transparent synthetic yarn.

In their latest Spring/Summer 2018 offering, the designers took inspiration from off-the-grid desert communities. For the collection, Cottweiler worked with Reebok on two brand-new shoe models, a zip-up boot while the other was a transformable three-in-one sneaker.