Scent Structure

The best way to get an idea of how a fragrance smells is to understand its structure in terms of top, middle and base notes. Perfumers use the term top note (sometimes referred to as an opening or “head” note) in reference to the first scent impression a fragrance makes when it’s applied to the skin. Top notes fade quickly usually only lasting up to 30 minutes. Some typical top notes include citrus and lighter ingredients like lavender and lemongrass.

After the initial drydown, the middle notes (also referred to as “heart” notes) will become noticable. These are are the medium weight molecules which appear after a fragrance has been applied for some time. These often include heavier florals like geranium, lavender, jasmine, ylang-ylang and rose. Other examples include spices such as cinnamon, coriander and cardamom. The middle note showcases the main element of the fragrance. Middle notes develop after the top note clears and can last three to five hours after being sprayed.

The base notes, also called end notes or bottom notes, are the ones that last the longest and help hold the scent together. The base notes are responsible for slowing down the evaporation of the lighter notes. These are the elements that will linger on your skin long after you’ve sprayed the scent. Oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, musk and vanilla are commonly used base notes. If you’ve ever noticed a fragrance lingering after being out all day, the base notes are probably what you’re smelling. Perfumers create fragrances with this progression of scents in mind but if a fragrance doesn't have clear top, middle and base notes, it's described as linear.

Natural fragrances are derived from plants, trees or animals and can range from sandalwood to deer musk. Synthetic fragrances on the other hand are created in a laboratory and are essential to modern perfumery. Within synthetic fragrances there are three main types: full synthetics (composed almost entirely from petroleum by-products) semi-synthetics and natural fragrances that have been modified by artificial means. Natural fragrances are not inherently better than synthetics, but it does come down to personal preference.

The best way to test a fragrance is to directly spritz it on to your wrists and smell it throughout the day. The scent will transform over time and can smell quite different after several hours compared to when it’s first applied. Also your skin type can affect how the scent progresses and the only true way to know how something will smell on you is by wearing it.

Concentrations

Another important consideration in choosing a fragrance is the concentration. Perfumes with a higher fragrance concentration contain more perfume oils and less alcohol, meaning they will smell stronger and last longer. Almost all fragrances will be labeled with their concentration; below is a breakdown of the most common types.

Parfum

Parfum, also known as extrait de parfum or pure perfume, has the highest fragrance concentration. Parfum will have anywhere from 15 percent to 40 percent fragrance, however the concentration generally ranges between 20 percent to 30 percent for most parfums. Of all scents, parfums last the longest; typically six to eight hours. Parfums generally also command the highest prices of all the fragrance concentrations. People with sensitive skin may do better with parfums as they have far less alcohol than other fragrance types and therefore are not as likely to dry out their skin.

Eau de Parfum

After parfum, eau de parfum (sometimes abbreviated as EDP) has the next highest concentration of fragrance. Eau de parfum generally has a fragrance concentration of between 15 percent and 20 percent. On average, eau de parfum will last four to five hours. Eau de parfum is the most common fragrance type and is probably the best option for everyday wear.

Eau de Toilette

Eau de toilette (EDT) has a fragrance concentration of between 5 percent and 15 percent. It’s also one of the most popular concentrations and will normally last for two to three hours. Traditionally eau de toilette is considered to be better for daywear while eau de parfum is considered a better option at night.

Eau de Cologne

Eau de cologne (or EDC) has a much lower concentration of fragrance than the above. EDC generally has a 2 percent to 4 percent concentration of fragrance and a high concentration of alcohol. Eau de colognes are are sold at lower prices, however the scent only lasts for a couple hours at best.

Eau Fraiche

Eau fraiche is similar to eau de cologne in that the scent will generally last for up to two hours. Eau fraiche has an even lower concentration of fragrance than eau de cologne, normally only 1 percent to 3 percent. While eau fraiche has a low fragrance concentration, it usually contains barely any alcohol and is largely made up of water.

The Rise of Niche Perfumery

The global perfume market was worth $36 billion in 2016. With the size of the market comes a myriad of choices and hundreds of new scents every year. While most of us are familiar with the the major designer brands we see in department stores, there are lots of independent labels emerging in the niche perfume space.

Niche fragrances are produced at perfume houses or workshops on a much smaller scale. These are the perfumes you will likely only find at a location specializing in perfume or high-end fragrance. An article in The Independent cites that, “In 2015, niche fragrances represented four percent of total fragrance value sales, but contributed to 69 percent of the growth.” With so many interesting products in the niche perfume space, it should not be overlooked when you shop for your next scent.

Byredo

Known by its minimalist packaging and high quality ingredients, Byredo was founded in 2006 by Ben Gorham. Gorham was intrigued by scent and memory after travelling to his mother's hometown in India. Advised by world-renowned perfumers Olivia Giacobetti and Jerome Epinette, the brand has launched 47 fragrances to date and expanded into scented candles and skincare. Byredo is even creating a home fragrance in tandem with Ikea set to launch in 2019. This wasn’t the brand’s first unlikely collaboration, as Byredo released a fragrance with the editors of Fantastic Man magazine in 2011.

Escentric Molecules

Berlin-based perfumer Geza Schoen established Escentric Molecules as a unisex fragrance company in 2006. The innovative brand produces distinct single-note scents that highlight a rare, unique component. Its formulations are great if you prefer a subtle scent that does not overpower. Its best-seller is the Molecule 01 Eau de Toilette which is highly sensitive to body chemistry and combines with the wearers' own natural scent to create something quite unique and alluring.

Comme des Garçons

The first scent from Comme des Garçons was released all the way back in 1994. The scent was crafted by veteran perfumer Mark Buxton and released in an iconic pebble-shaped bottle. The tagline for the original Parfum was works like a medicine, behaves like a drug. Certainly CdG had created something addictive and unconventional right from the get-go. Since then Comme des Garçons has released dozens more scents, many of which are highly experimental in nature. Among the releases are fragrances based around synthetics, incense and collaborations with the likes of Gosha Rubchinskiy and Pharrell. You can find its fragrances in boutiques worldwide and at Comme des Garçons’ own Dover Street Market stores.

Hawthorne

Started in New York by long-time friends, Brian Jeong and Phillip Wong. Hawthorne sets out to provide accessible and high quality men’s fragrances at a price point that won’t break the bank. Hawthorne enlisted the help of some veteran Givaudan perfumers Olivier Gillotin, Quentin Bisch and Rodrigo Flores-Roux to craft men’s fragrances that are wearable every day. The brand offers a personality test on irs website which will recommend two fragrances for work and play that are suited to your particular lifestyle.

Maison Martin Margiela

While Maison Margiela is a familiar name in the fashion world, the venerable fashion house made its first foray into fragrance in 2011. The fragrance was simply dubbed “Untitled”. The packaging stood out instantly, featuring an apothecary style bottle dipped in white paint. Fortunately just as much attention was put into the scent itself, which contrasts green notes with a drydown that includes frankincense and white musk. A truly unisex fragrance, the line has since expanded to feature several scents targeting both men and women.

Le Labo

Founded in 2006, Le Labo is a New York–based perfume house that made a name for itself through its handmade products. Le Labo established itself as as one of the first household name in niche perfumery and its best-selling scents like Santal 33 are ubiquitous at high-end department stores and perfume shops. While not the most experimental fragrances on the market, Le Labo scents are addictive and hard to forget.

Le Cinema Olfactif (From Folie à Plusieurs)

For the serious film buffs out there, Le Cinéma Olfactif attempts to re-interpret film visuals into innovative scents. One example is its take on the cult classic French film La Haine. The brand describes the scent as, “A calm yet confrontational scent; mirroring the tension in La Haine that traces the contours of your neck like a sharp cold blade with buchu sulphur, metallic bloody notes and cold aldehydes.” Some of the other arthouse films that the brand has sampled for inspiration include The Lobster, The Virgin Suicides and The Duke of Burgundy.

Frederic Malle

Frederic Malle comes from generations of perfume expertise, starting from his grandfather who founded Parfums Christian Dior. Having worked as a professional perfume critic, Malle went on to found his own eponymous label that is dedicated to creating luxurious uncompromising products.

Frederic Malle works with world-renowned perfumers to create distinct scents without being tied to one particular style and he’s got fashion credibility having created scents with the likes of Dries Van Noten and Pierre Hardy. His namesake line provides minimalist luxury that respects the time-honored tradition of perfume making.

The information above should give you a good overview of what you need to know when selecting a fragrance. The most important thing is that you go out and try many scents for yourself to find something that you’ll look forward to using time and time again. Explore your local fashion boutiques and department stores to see what they have on hand.

If you’re not able to try the scents you want locally, take a look online at sites like Basenotes which hosts reviews for hundreds of scents. Another great resource is Luckyscent which offers a huge selection of samples you can order to your door. Its testers offer an affordable way to try a scent before committing to a whole bottle.

The process of finding a scent you love can be a lot of fun. Even if you have something already, consider shopping around for a second or third scent to add to the rotation. Fragrances offer a way to express yourself beyond the visual or verbal realm and, as is often the case, can come define your personal style with or without wearing anything that’s currently hanging in your wardrobe.