Originally released in 1972 for that year's Olympics, the Cortez was the first modern running shoe. Designed by Nike co-founder and Olympic coach Bill Bowerman, the Cortez featured additional cushioning and thick soles to protect long distance runners from rough terrain. While the shoe has waned in popularity in the decades since, a number of collaborations and pop culture moments—thank you Forrest Gump—have ensured the sneaker stays consistently relevant. Although modern iterations range from leather to suede, the original sneaker was composed of a lightweight nylon, a sleeker silhouette that unfortunately fell out of favor with the public who preferred the white leather pair Forrest Gump propelled to fame on his years-long marathon.

Although a number of collabs ranging from Comme des Garçons to Hiroshi Fujiwara’s Fragment have elevated the sneaker’s cultural standing, the resurgence of the original design is no doubt due to the indomitable Kendrick Lamar. Already an iconic shoe in the West Coast rap scene, artists from Eazy-E to Tupac regularly wore the Cortez from the late ’80s onwards—precisely the time Lamar grew up in Compton. The lineage was clearly not lost on the rapper, who chose the silhouette when he was tapped to work with Nike. Following the release of his take on the Cortez—the “Kung Fu Kenny”—the sneaker was thrust back into the spotlight. Yet, with such a rich pop cultural history from hip-hop to film, it’s only logical that people began to hunt for the original sneaker. While few pairs from the ‘70s still exist, thankfully the gems that are left from the late ‘80s are currently undervalued—for now. If a vintage sneaker wave is coming, expect this sneaker to catch it hard.

Whether or not vintage sneakers take off en masse, the Nike Dunk resurgence is already upon us. The second most-popular shoe to debut in 1985—more on that below—the Dunk was, like many Nike basketball shoes throughout the ‘80s, an amalgam of different sneakers. Originally sketched by former Nike creative director Peter Moore (the same who designed the Air Jordan 1), the Dunk was conceived as a natural evolution from the Air Force 1 that debuted three years prior. Clearly bearing a resemblance to both the Jordan 1 and Nike Terminator, the upper featured subtle tweaks, a sort of middle ground between the two aforementioned silhouettes, while the last was based off the Nike Legend, at the time Nike’s most successful basketball shoe.

Though the intended name was the College Color High (which would have tied directly in with the ensuing marketing campaign), the shoe somewhat coincided with the 40th anniversary of the slam dunk, leading to a last minute name change—in hindsight it was clearly the smart choice. In anticipation of the shoe’s release, Nike launched the now iconic “Be True to Your School” campaign, one of the most effective (if unanticipated) advertisements in the brands then-nascent history. As “College Color” implies, the Nike Dunk was designed as a shoe for college basketball teams. The concept was simple: sponsor successful college teams and provide the players with color-coordinated sneakers, then market those same shoes to the respective campus so fans could match their school’s all-stars. Teams like UNLV, Michigan, St. John’s, Arizona, Iowa and Kentucky amongst others all received the “Be True” treatment. It was a smash success.

While pitched toward college basketball fanatics and athletes, the shoe somewhat surprisingly caught the eye of the emerging skate community, with many of the subculture’s most notable figures from the Z-Boys to Mark Gonzales adopting it. On top of skate and sport, the hip-hop and proto-streetwear community fell in love with the Dunk as well—largely due to regional exclusives. This trifecta led to the Dunk boom, closely associated with sneaker tourism. With the rise of sneaker forums like NikeTalk, the first era of sneakerheads were born, many of whom’s primary focus was Nike Dunks. Despite this illustrious history, the shoe fell out of favor in the late-2000s. With Jordan retros and Nike SBs dominating the sneaker conversation, the shoe became such an afterthought that Nike almost stopped making new versions entirely. Suddenly, however, there was a shift.

Over the past four years, those early models suddenly started trending. Whether it was due to the 2015 re-release honoring the shoe’s 30th anniversary or simply because Virgil Abloh started wearing them, the Nike Dunk began dominating the vintage conversation, with men seeking out specific vintage models—the “Be True” and Nike.co.jp Japanese exclusives in particular. With original release Nike Dunk High “Michigan” and “Celtic” sneakers now selling for nearly $500, and Abloh co-opting those colorways for his most recent Off-White x Nike sneaker—also a Dunk!—if there is any proof men are beginning to look into the sneaker archive, this is it.

Consistently popular since its 1973 debut, the Nike Blazer has always been a respected—if somewhat underrated—sneaker. One of the first true Nike basketball sneakers, its leather upper, mesh nylon tongue and vulcanized-rubber sole were, in 1973 at least, revolutionary. At that point, sneakers were a niche market, largely designed just for athletics and not respected as an innovative, boundary pushing industry. Nike co-founder Bill Bowerman changed all that. Though named after Nike's local basketball team (the Portland Trail Blazers), a player from an entirely separate NBA franchise propelled the shoe to international acclaim: George "The Iceman" Gervin.

In '73, Gervin left adidas for the Swoosh in favor of a more lucrative contract and Nike's superior technology. The first athlete to wear the Blazer, Gervin received one of the first ever player exclusive (PE) sneakers, bearing his "Iceman" moniker on the heel in place of the "NIKE" branding. Through Gervin helped transform the Blazer into a household name, shortly after the Blazer was introduced Nike began researching AIR technology, and within a few short years the Blazer—as far as basketball was concerned—was obsolete. Interestingly enough, Nike pivoted its marketing strategy and the shoe, which was relatively cheap to produce, became one of the company's first "lifestyle" models, a low-cost alternative to its more technical sports-focused silhouettes.

For the Blazer, the new categorization was a blessing in disguise. Rather than being constantly outdated, the shoe became an affordable favorite and, somewhat surprisingly, a hit amongst the skate community. While the bulky leather and vulcanized sole were no longer at home on the hardwood, the durability and grip they respectively provided was not lost on skaters. This early association with skate culture gave the shoe a second life, and the shoe solidified itself as a part of street culture canon. Over the new few decades, subtle design tweaks and collaborations ranging from Futura to Supreme transformed the Blazer to a cult classic.

By 2019, between the Nike SB iteration and modern general release version, the Blazer's basketball roots were almost entirely forgotten—until they weren't. A new take on the sneaker, the Blazer 77 Vintage, attempted to recapture the original blazer spirit. First launched as a collaboration with Milan-based boutique and distributor Slam Jam, the new blazer featured a traditional off-white leather upper with vulcanized rubber sole and an inverted Swoosh. At first slept on, through subsequent releases the shoe became a smash success, immediately coveted by sneaker heads and in contention for one of the best shoes of the year. Considering the popularity of a "vintage" take on a Nike staple, it's only logical that actual vintage Blazers are due for a comeback. Start hunting now—they're already hard to come by.

Michael Jordan’s rise—and, in turn, that of Jordan Brand—has at this point been told and retold so many times and in every which way that the truth behind his legendary Nike deal is now as much myth as it is legend. While any respectable sneakerhead would claim they can recite the exact history of the “banned” Jordan 1, it was not even the first sneaker Jordan wore on court—in fact, it technically was not even the shoe that was banned. That honor belongs to the Nike Air Ship. Until a modern version of the shoe was recently unveiled via Horishi Fujiwara’s Instagram account, many sneakerheads had never even heard of the Air Ship. Released in 1984—on year prior to the Air Jordan 1—the Air Ship was slated as Nike’s next big basketball sneaker. Then, everything changed when Jordan signed his Nike deal. Following Jordan’s commitment to Nike, the Swoosh immediately began developing what would be Jordan’s first signature sneaker—the Air Jordan—however the show was not game ready come Jordan’s debut game in 1984. Desperately seeking an alternative, Nike opted to lace up Jordan in the Air Ship instead, however a slightly modified P.E. version as to match his Bulls uniform.

The product of legendary Nike designer Bruce Kilgore (also responsible for the Air Force 1) and Peter Moore, the Air Ship was—like the Dunk—a continuation of the Air Force 1 lineage. Lacking the iconic Air Force 1 strap and boasting an additional forefront leather support layer on the upper, the original Air Ship was intended as the basis for a new generation of Nike basketball sneakers. Originally available in a number of colorways, the most famous are obviously those Jordan wore—the white/red colorway he practiced in and the infamous red/black colorway, the actual “banned” sneaker*.

Come March, 1984, Jordan’s signature sneaker was finally ready, and after the big reveal, Nike never looked back. With the release of the Dunk just a few months thereafter, Nike sidelined the Air Ship in favor of newer models, and just one year after it released, the Swoosh ceased Air Ship production.

While an iconic—if oft forgotten—portion of the Jordan legacy, the Air Ship never received the credit it duly deserves, no doubt a result of what Nike felt would be unnecessary competition and cannibalizing sales. Now, three-plus decades removed, the brand clearly no longer sees an issue. After the unexpected announcement courtesy of Fujiwara, various sources confirmed the sneaker was part of a two-pack, featuring the original pre-season Air Ship colorway as well as a Red/White Air Jordan 1 retro—a reflection on Jordan’s first few weeks in the league. Clearly, Jordan sees that all these years later fans are looking back through the brand’s history more than ever, and capitalizing on vintage silhouettes is a wise marketing move. The way we see it, if the shoe is set for a re-release, just like with any other Nike sneaker, the originals will sky-rocket in price. If you can find a pair of ‘84 Air Ships, buy them—now. You won’t regret it.

While much less celebrated than its close cousin the Nike Dunk, the Terminator holds an important place in Nike lore. While not the most aesthetically pleasing of the models released in ‘85—and don’t get us started on modern versions—the Terminator is significant in being the only true college signature sneaker in the brands history.

In 1985, a year after winning the NCAA championship, the Georgetown Hoyas were considered the best basketball team in the nation. While other schools received “Be True” dunks, Georgetown, however, was bestowed a separate honor: its own shoe. While visually similar to the dunk, the Terminator included “NIKE” branding on the heel, while the Georgetown version read “HOYAS” (the school mascot) instead. Nicknamed the “Big Nike” due to the aforementioned lettering, the shoe—while successful—was nowhere near as beloved as the Dunk. So, eventually, it was respositioned as a downmarket alternative. Still, the original Hoyas general release version (which still reads “NIKE” on the back, only team players received “HOYAS”) is a crucial part of Nike history—and the market rate reflects it. When the vintage wave hits, Terminators might just have their second coming.

Considering its numerous pop-culture references and ahead of its time styling, it’s strange that the Nike Vandal High doesn’t command more respect in the sneaker community. Originally debuting in 1984, the Vandal High was best known for its hook-and-loop strap, a feature the original Air Force 1 High made famous just two years prior. Apart from that design flourish, the panelled leather upper on top of a standard sole was pretty run-of-the-mill as far as ‘80s Nike sneakers are considered. What did stand out, however, was the proportions, and how relatively slim the shoe was. While designed as a basketball sneaker, considering the release of the Dunk, Jordan 1 and Terminator over the next year, the sneaker barely had a chance out the gate. While production continued until 1987, the sneaker eventually ceased production, however staged intermittent returns over the past 30 years.

While not famous for its on-court accolades, the Vandal ingrained itself into pop-culture history via a different avenue: film. In 1985, the world was introduced to Doc Brown in Back to the Future, who, in his opening scenes wears none other than Nike Vandals. Then, in 1991, the Vandals once again appeared, this time receiving major shine in the opening scene of Terminator—there’s even a close up of a near-naked John Conor securing the strap.

While the sneaker has been light in the way of collaboration—though John Elliot did design a great pair of Vandals in 2018—the era, silhouette and adjacencies are simply too good to pass up.

Although a number of collabs ranging from Comme des Garçons to Hiroshi Fujiwara’s Fragment have elevated the sneaker’s cultural standing, the resurgence of the original design is no doubt due to the indomitable Kendrick Lamar. Already an iconic shoe in the West Coast rap scene, artists from Eazy-E to Tupac regularly wore the Cortez from the late ’80s onwards—precisely the time Lamar grew up in Compton. The lineage was clearly not lost on the rapper, who chose the silhouette when he was tapped to work with Nike. Following the release of his take on the Cortez—the “Kung Fu Kenny”—the sneaker was thrust back into the spotlight. Yet, with such a rich pop cultural history from hip-hop to film, it’s only logical that people began to hunt for the original sneaker. While few pairs from the ‘70s still exist, thankfully, the gems that are left from the late ‘80s are currently undervalued—for now. If a vintage sneaker wave is coming, expect this sneaker to catch it hard.

The tale of the Sky Force is unfortunate. Released alongside the Air Ship, it was the less successful of the two models, largely considered a flop. Despite releasing after the Air Force 1, the sneaker lacked Air technology and was immediately dated. Then, of course, in 1985 the Jordan, Dunk and Terminator released, so the shoe barely survived. While numerous attempts to relaunch and rebrand the shoe have been staged, they have been overwhelmingly unsuccessful. The worst part? Of that generation of sneakers, it’s—aesthetically speaking—one of the best.

Featuring a perforated toe box, subtle Nike branding at the calf and lacking any ostentatious straps or loud adornments, the Sky Force was an objectively good-looking shoe. Not only did it set the stage for what came immediately after, but many of the original Jordan 1 colorways (silver/white, red/white, etc.) were derived precisely from the Sky Force. With no pop-culture references to stand on, the shoe has largely been forgotten, but in the vintage Nike hierarchy it’s one of the most well-regarded—and undervalued. If you are searching for vintage Nikes sure to impress even the most senior collector, some ‘84 Sky Forces in silver will surely blow anything else out of the way.

Now, the saddest story of them all: the Nike Team Convention. Released in 1985 shortly after the Dunk, the Team Convention was a near one-to-one replica, however with subtle design tweaks that make them, in our opinion, even better. While the sole, lace locks, wings and swoosh all match that of the ‘85 Dunks, the Team Convention boasted a few extra features that took them over the edge. Nike branding on the wing, a slightly more rounded toe and a wider last almost reminiscent of the Court Force, the Team Convention is arguably the most beautiful sneaker of that year—yeah, we said it.

Of course, like many others on this list, the Dunk and Jordan 1 steamrolled it. Originally released in 1985, by 1987 Nike stopped producing the shoe and since sales were not great today it is exceedingly rare. As opposed to many others on this list whose vintage models have yet to truly hit, the Team Convention is already at critical mass, with near deadstock pairs worth nearly $2,000. For the fringe vintage Nike collectors, the Team Convention—particularly the orange (the basis for the lauded Syracuse Dunk) and purple colorways—is the holy grail. Regardless of rising interest in vintage Nikes, this pair is already in the has-been hall of fame.