The “face fabric” refers to the layer of material on a jacket’s face—the one that faces the elements. A face fabric’s job is simple: be the first line of defense between the outside world and the parts of the jacket keeping you cozy. This fabric itself (unless it’s wool) will not keep you warm. If you buy a nylon shell—essentially, just a zip-up face fabric—as a winter all-in-one, you will inevitably suffer.

Broadly, face fabrics can either be synthetic or natural. Synthetic fabrics like nylon and polyester were specifically developed as water-resistant and are often the outer layer of any dependable weatherproofing system. Natural fabrics however are case-by-case: cotton canvas absorbs water while ventile (a specific cotton weave) is rather good at keeping the elements out.

As a general rule, buyers should check for abrasions, discolorations, rips, snags, anything at all that could hamper the face fabric’s job as first line of defense. While wool and cotton can produce beautiful pieces, as a general rule avoid “water-resistant” jackets with natural fibers as the face. No matter how strong the waterproof coating, the fabric itself will eventually absorb water, which risks saturating both the weatherproofing and any fleece or down insulation behind it.

(Pictured above: Alyx x Mackintosh Belted Trench Coat)

Beyond the face, it’s important to understand how coats actually keep out the elements. There are a different types of water resistances that are commonly found at your local outerwear supplier: Water resistant and waterproof

What is Water Resistant?
This is the lowest grade of protection. While outfitters like REI make sure to note that many jackets are “water resistant” simply because, while being worn on the body, they block the elements. However, jackets made from materials like cotton are far more likely to absorb any water beyond a few stray drops, so this naming wouldn’t be for those types of jackets. Even water resistant jackets will likely have a DWR coating (we’ll get to that in our “Water Repellant” section), meaning they’ll have some noticeable (albeit, not all-encompassing) resistance to precipitation.

What is Waterproof?
As the name implies this means that the jacket itself will be able to resist most if not all forms of precipitation—with performance based on the type of treatment and the conditions it was designed to handle (in other words: Keep in mind that an average waterproof rainjacket—no matter how well designed—will not perform perfectly in a low visibility blizzard). Waterproofing is achieved by a series of three factors working in concert with each other: a treated or coated face fabric, an interior mesh and a membrane in between both layers (to allow vapor to escape). It’s worth noting that waterproofing varies from brand to brand (and in some cases, product category to product category) with no clear standard for waterproofing

What is Water Repellant?
These two designations don’t necessarily mean something is “water repellent.” That’s where the coating of a jacket really comes into effect. The reason water “beads up” on any face fabric is the result of an applied waterproof coating, the most popular of which is DWR (durable water repellent). Coatings lose effectiveness over time and must be reactivated with a quick dryer cycle or, in some cases, re-applied (spray-on DWR costs $10 via Amazon). If anyone claims that a jacket has “lost its waterproofing,” it’s probably just old DWR.

A simple test: Ask for a video of water running off the garment if it’s not provided. If it’s a nylon or polyester face fabric and the water soaks in right away, the problem is simply DWR. Even then, if it’s a jacket with a brand-name membrane (HyVent, Gore-Tex, NeoShell, etc.), it’s probably not getting to the interior in any sustained way.

Note: The qualities outlined here are only half the battle.

(Pictured above: Junya Watanabe x The North Face x Karrimor Backpack Nylon Jacket)

If simply coating a jacket with waterproof coating was the single solution, then you’d be just as well serviced buying a cheap rubber poncho over that techwear parka. The real key is keeping the rainwater and snow out, while allowing your sweat, perspiration and body heat flow out of the jacket. As noted in our “Waterproof” section, this is where that aforementioned membrane comes into play.

The other half of weatherproofing concerns the jacket’s internal construction. In the typical tech fabric coat, a plasticized membrane, usually a nylon/polyester with some degree of the aforementioned DWR coating, is laminated between the face fabric and the interior—rarely do cotton/wool jackets feature waterproof membranes. This membrane serves two key purposes: It keeps weather and water drops outside while also allowing sweat vapor molecules (magnitudes smaller than rain drops) to aspirate out.

This is precisely why Gore-Tex was so innovative when invented in 1969. Making something waterproof was as easy as coating it in plastic bags. Making the same thing breathe—without the wearer sweating profusely—was truly groundbreaking.

Since the advent of Gore-Tex, membranes of all shapes and sizes have entered the market. Gore-Tex remains the most visible (and arguably, most effective) brand, but names like eVent, Dermizax, and Polartec’s NeoShell are equally functional.

At the higher end of the market, garments bearing Gore-Tex Pro and Schoeller’s c_change can survive practically any form of foul weather. At the lower end, 2L and 2.5L fabrics like The North Face’s HyVent or Patagonia’s H2No provide equivalent waterproofing, but saturate with water faster in heavy rain. Debatably as important as construction is sealing—particularly in zippers and seams, two areas where water is susceptible to seep in—regardless of a jacket’s tech. Taped seams and reinforced zippers are a must for any serious weather. For all but bike couriers and arctic explorers, membrane preference is mostly aesthetic: $800 Gore Pro will keep you just as dry walking from the subway as a The North Face HyVent. Plus, it’s not as if every wintry day means sideways sleet. What makes the bulk of difference in a jacket’s overall ability to keep your warm is its insulation.

(Pictured above: Acronym J32-GT)

Recommended Brands
$: L.L. Bean, The North Face, Patagonia
$$: Arc’teryx, Barbour, Mackintosh
$$: Acronym, Stone Island, Veilance

By stabilizing a layer of air between your skin and the jacket’s outer layers, solid insulation creates a “microclimate,” that acts as a buffer between your body and the outside world. The three most effective materials commonly used in winter coats are: down, synthetic loft and fleece.

What is Down?

The most famous insulation, down, is made of harvested waterfowl feathers—the layer that keeps geese warm in frozen ponds. The warmest insulator by weight, down is the most expensive of the three. One drawback: down can not get wet. Considering it’s made of feathers, soaking a down jacket causes those lofty down puffs to stick together, preventing any air from being trapped between them.

What is Fill Power?

When shopping down jackets, pay special attention to the down’s “fill power,” typically given as a number from 400 to 900. The higher the fill power, the more effective the down is, by-weight. A flock-ton of 400 fill down will be warmer in absolute than a pinch of 900, but a lightweight jacket with low-fill down just may not be as warm as you would like. The number indicates how many cubic inches an ounce of down covers fully-lofted; 500 fill power down means one ounce of that down covers a maximum of 500 cubic inches.

400 and 500 fill power down is the most commonly used and stands as generally the cheapest way to buy down. However, down at this fill power comes from younger birds, and therefore doesn’t have the same insulation potential. It is recommended that those buying a jacket for regular winter use opt for something around 600 fill power for full seasonal use.

What is Fill Weight

If fill power is the quality of the down within the jacket, the fill weight determines the quantity of down. As noted earlier, a pound of lower fill power down will be better than an ounce of high fill power down. While fill weight won’t normally be flagged by brands as they promote their products, it affects practical factors shoppers look for in down jackets—especially compression. Ideally buyers should aim for a high fill power but low fill weight; higher fill weight items will be hard to compress and re-loft.

What is Synthetic Down?

For those seeking an ethically-conscious, cruelty-free insulator—with some wet-weather performance, to boot—synthetic loft makes a potent alternative. Pioneered by PrimaLoft in the late ‘80s, synthetic loft is made of blended polyester spun into shapes that mimic down feathers. While they may be a bit heavier than comparable down blends, a jacket made with PrimaLoft will still insulate effectively in wet weather.

What is Fleece

Lastly, there’s fleece. One of the most common insulators on the market, fleece simply refers to a fabric made of napped material designed to trap air, typically made from cotton, wool or polyester. In fleece, the name to know is Polartec. The Massachusetts-based mill invented polar fleece in the ‘80s, but has since expanded to manufacture all sorts of performance insulators from lightweight micro-fleeces to heavier, high-pile “Sherpa” fleeces. Frequent Supreme collaborators, Polartec continues to receive its shine following the sudden emergence of fleece in high-fashion.

Fleece is heavier than down or its synthetic alternatives, but makes up for it with a hard-wearing, all-weather breathability that its lofty cousins can’t touch. Down and synthetic must be held in place through delicate stitching called “baffling,” which ensures that it remains evenly distributed throughout the jacket. If baffling fails (or face fabric tears), an entire part of the piece may become ineffective. Fleece, meanwhile, lives for abuse. While its exposed, nappy fibers make it more susceptible to soaking up stains and smells, a scratch on one part of a fleece fabric won’t affect the integrity of the rest.

(Pictured above: Moncler Maya Jacket)

Recommended Brands
$: Nike, Uniqlo
$$: The North Face, Patagonia
$$$: Canada Goose, Moncler